Color: Bright green to muted pastel green. Usage: Alfalfa is one of the best plant-based green soap colorants I’ve used. I’ve used it in the form of liquid chlorophyll, and I’ve had some stunning greens from using about 1 TBSP PPO (be aware that not all liquid chlorophyll is made with alfalfa). Though it can fade into a greeny-yellow, the color holds better if soap is stored in the dark. I’ve had some beautiful results when mixing chlorella with French green clay. Color: Muted brown-green. Usage: Stir in as a powder at a light trace. I’ve not used it before, personally, but I’ve seen it used in this way in another person’s r ecipe. Color: Grey. Usage: mix 1 tsp dead sea mud powder PPO into the lye solution. Alternatively, premix with distilled water (use 3x the amount of clay for the water amount) and stir in at light trace.

Color: Blue Usage: Add a drop or two at trace. Blue Chamomile is extracted from German Chamomile flowers and is quite expensive. Color: Dark green. Usage: Add dried and powdered to liquid oils or at trace at up to 3 tsp PPO. Pre-mix in an equal amount of distilled water before stirring in. You can also use fresh kelp, as in this seaweed soap recipe.There are three ways to use woad to naturally color soap blue. No matter which method you try, begin with a soap recipe that doesn’t include a lot of yellow or golden oils. The reason being is golden oils naturally create cream to pale yellow colored bars. This warm color will interact with woad, giving you green bars in the end — it’s like mixing blue paint with yellow. So avoid extra virgin olive oil and other dark oils and butters and use recipes that include coconut oil, shea butter, and light-colored liquid oils such as olive oil pomace. We have a plant that grows around here called Oregon Grape whose stems and roots yield a yellow dye, we once used it to dye curtains, not sure if it would work in a soap mixture. Puree: soft plant material that is blended into a puree with a small amount of distilled water. Some plant materials, such as carrots, will need to be cooked or steamed first. Others, like avocado, are ready to be mashed up without cooking. Stir purees into soap batter at a light trace.

Aqua (Water) , Sorbitol , Stearic Acid , Palmitic Acid , Sodium Palm Kernelate , Propylene Glycol , Sodium Lauryl Sulfate , PEG - 4 , Sodium Laurate , Sodium Castorate , Isopropyl Alcohol , Sodium, Chloride , Parfum , Sodium Metabisulfite , Menthol , Tetrasodium Etidronate , Glycerin , Tetrasodium EDTA , BHT , Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil , CI 74160 , Coumarin , Geraniol , Limonene , Linalool , Butylphenyl, MethylpropionalColor: Milk chocolate brown Usage: typically, 1 tsp PPO is added directly to the lye solution or premixed in 1 TBSP distilled water and added at trace. You can see the color in this natural cinnamon soap recipe. I have a question about Red Sandalwood. I used some in a soap but my testers said it was too scratchy. I tried to make an infusion, however the soap came out more maroon. Any ideas why? And have you ever used an infusion? Any advice on how to make the red sandalwood less harsh? Color: Deep brown. Usage: Add powder at trace and be aware that they create a scratchy or exfoliating texture. Eye Candy “Nokon Blue” Mica Pigment Powder MultiPurpose | Natural Bath Bombs, Resin, Paint, Epoxy, Soap, Nail Polish, Lip Balm

Color: Dried flower powder can be added to melt-and-pour soap for a soft pink. Color does not survive CP/HP soapmaking. Keep collections to yourself or inspire other shoppers! Keep in mind that anyone can view public collections - they may also appear in recommendations and other places. Color: Peach to light orange to orange-brown Usage: The best way is to infuse paprika in liquid oils, strain, and discard the actual spice, or your soap may be scratchy. Adding the spice directly will also result in less vibrant hues.Color: Yellow-beige to light brown. Usage: Infuse flowers in distilled water and use the strained liquid to make the lye solution The first batches of soap were distributed in June, and they sold out in a matter of days. "This is a really good soap”, said Eric Nzohabonwayo, a retailer at Kinama market, outside the capital Bujumbura. “The foam is great, and it lasts for a very long time."

Color: Light to dark brown. Usage: add 1/2-1 tsp to hot lye solution as described in this honey soap recipe. Color: Light yellow to deep orange. Usage: This is not one that I’ve used before, but I understand that you can add the oil after trace.

The base soap recipe is firm and creates light fluffy bubbles How to naturally color soap with woad Natural soap making is an exciting craft anyone can do from the comfort of their kitchen. Here at Lovely Greens, I share many small-sized cold-process soap recipes for beginners, and after making a few simple batches, you might be interested in unique ways to scent and color your bars. You’ll find that the soaping world is filled with colorful and exciting design inspiration. Vibrant reds, swirls of sparkles, and layers of every color imaginable. But what if you want to keep your soap 100% natural? Color: Muted purple, burgundy to mauve, and brown. Usage: Add 1/4-1/2 tsp powder PPO at trace after premixing in a little oil. Can be very scratchy if you use more than this.