Sorry that I don't have any mid-build pictures for this step; I had my hands full putting the faces together and couldn't take any photos! There are spaces for M3 nuts in the mount_main (like with the center_wire_guide) but you don't need to use them, as it's unlikely to be pulled on with much force.

Keep in mind that you'll need to position the board in the dodecahedron's base and drill a few holes for the buttons. This creates the "infinity" effect where the object seems to be repeated into the depths of the mirrors. You should remove any adhesive backing, and tin the pads (I didn't do the tinning, which was a mistake). Once together you can remove from the water and using a thin piece of plastic like a credit card squeeze out the excess soap and water between the layers.In between each cap you can fit a cover plate to cover any power injection wires that follow the outer frame.

Please note that the controller PCB is a general purpose PCB that I've designed for breaking out the Wemos pins and driving LEDs.If everything's good, the dodecahedron should begin cycling effects (make sure your are using the wall adapter for power). In other words, it appears as if the real, physical polyhedron is surrounded on all sides by phantom polyhedra of the same type.