Drivetrain efficiency describes how much of the energy (usually described as ‘power’ because it can be measured in watts) you put through the pedals reaches the rear wheel, to drive you and the bike forward. So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me. Green Oil's wet lube is fully biodegradable and is made from 100% natural ingredients. To increase durability and the length of time between applications, this wet lube contains N-Toc, a special refined plant extract that has similar properties to Teflon. Green Oil claims it lasts over 200 kilometres on the chain per application, depending on the conditions. Unless your bike ride is planned to take place underwater, we’d recommend steering well clear of using grease on your chain. Do aerosol lubes work? After months of testing and development, SMOOVE are proud to announce the launch of SMOOVE Prep. Think of SMOOVE Prep as the conditioner to your shampoo, the milk in your coffee, the seat on your seat post… ok, you get the idea!

You've applied too much SMOOVE. Probably by reapplying too soon or over-applying in the first instance. Wipe away the excess gloop very lightly with a dry cloth and keep riding. It will soon bed in. However, it doesn't last any longer than the average wax lube, can let wet chains rust between rides, and it's expensive. Verdict I suppose you really have to try it to appreciated it. I am going to try the paraffin wax/slow cooker way next and see how I get on as cost wise that is easily the best option. Regular, correct application of lube is an important process to ensure the smooth and efficient running of your bike.However, if you are in the habit of giving your chain a thorough clean and re-lube, once a week or so, then this maintenance routine is no worse and a lot less messy than a wet lube. Smoove recommends citrus degreaser for the job, but when I ran out I tried white spirit and it worked just as well, bringing the chain up sparkling. By all means, apply a wet lube for a torrential ride, but make sure you clean your chain effectively afterwards. Don't just reapply a fresh layer of lubricant on top of the grit and dirt that's on your chain. The same goes for 'dry' lube. If you’re thinking, “That sounds like quite a lot of hassle…”, you wouldn’t be wrong. It is, at least initially. In all conditions, the SMOOVE keeps the drivetrain well… Smooth and it hasn’t washed off mid-ride whenever the conditions took a turn.

For wet conditions, the winner is slightly less clear cut, but we’d still recommend waxed-based lubricants for their efficiency. Crucially, however, you’ll have to be prepared to clean your chain immediately after wet rides to prevent corrosion.

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When a chain is dirty, contamination is present in each chain link in the form of metal particles, dirt or sand etc. These contaminants are suspended within a chain lubricant, specifically the carrier the lubricant is held in, and essentially form a grinding paste which will just wear your chain out from the inside. Even the best road bike groupsets will be ruined in just a few thousand miles if chain wear is terminal. Step 5 > Do not wipe chain after application. Leave to set, but wipe your rim, frame or floor wherever SMOOVE has over-sprayed.

I really rate Prolink ProGold if you just want a liquid lube that's clean and good in every condition. However, I've recently been using the Muc Off ceramic dry as I had about a bazillion samples to use up and I have to say I'd really forgotten how good it is both on and off road at this time of year. The downside of wet lubes? These same properties also make it a magnet for dirt and grime (especially if applied excessively), and the extra viscosity also means lower outright efficiency compared to thinner lubes, due to the added viscous friction. Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff. matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. When most cyclists think about lubrication, they likely think about decreasing friction and increasing efficiency. It’s not all about efficiency though, friction and drivetrain wear are closely associated too.

Smoove Lube final thoughts

When used off-road and in really poor British weather and trail conditions, its lifetime drops as low as 30km. That's on par with other lubricants – including other waxed-based drips – but then, most of those don't claim a lifespan, let alone 300km of it. From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear.