We'd not recommend putting ceramic tiles over the thermal liner. If you want to hang ceramic tiles over the thermal liner, please use the Professional Insulation Panels instead.

Insulation is amazing stuff. Remember the days of 3mm polystyrene roll (I think you can still get it!)? I recall as a wee kid coming across this stuff on a relative's old house wall, and being fascinated by how 'warm' it felt when I placed my palm on it. I realise now that 'warm' means that it didn't conduct heat out off my skin... Allow at least 24 hours for drying, longer if conditions are especially humid or cold. Wherever possible we also recommend that the thermal liner is allowed to dry out naturally and therefore the heating is turned off whilst the adhesive dries out. However if temperatures are likely to drop below 10°c/50°F it is advisable that low level heating is used to ensure that the adhesive can cure effectively. A. The roll are extra wide so each roll will cover 7.5 m2 or 121 ft2. Please use the link below to calculate the square meterage you may require, you will need to select Klimatec Thermovlies on the scroll menu. http://www.erfurt.com/cms/en/advisor/advisormain/calculation.html When used in isolation this product is suitable as a localised ‘problem solver’ for cold external walls and is not recommended for use in fire escape routes or on ceilings.If you do not intend to cover the product with fibreliner or similar then any small gaps at seams and corners can be filled and sanded prior to painting the surface directly with standard emulsion paint. Use a good quality, flexible non shrinking filler. I don't know about the wallboard you are asking about but logically in insulation terms it's likely to little difference and it's more likely a psychological effect.

I would also think that, once it's adhered properly on that wall, it ain't going to shift easily. So, follow the instructions carefully, and allow PLENTY of time to ensure the proper adhesive has fully set. A. Yes you will do, especially when the heating is first turned on as room warm up time is reduced dramatically and the air currents that make you feel cold whilst a room warms up are also reduced. This is of course in addition to all the other benefits such as a reduction in noise entering through the treated wall. Thermal liner is classified as „E “according to DIN EN 13501-1 in relation to its reaction to fire behaviour, which corresponds to „B2“(normally inflammable) according to the standard DIN 4102-1 Retro fitted cavity wall insulation doesn't have this and can in some cases act as a bridge for penetrating water to the inner leaf of the wall causing damp, the wet cavity can also lead to premature corrosion of wall ties. This is more likely on a Victorian cavity wall than a larger modern cavity wall. Lots of the companies that put the CWI in also don't have the best reputations. There are far more scare stories about CWI than actual problems. If you have a defective wall with holes in it or loose render; or a gutter spilling water down the wall, then you need to fix it. If you have a cavity filled with builders rubble then it should not be there (it is quite tiresome to remove)The product works by creating a thermal barrier at the wall surface ensuring more heat is retained within the room for massively reduced warm up times and on-going energy savings - at the same time combatting the formation of condensation and the resultant unhealthy and unsightly mould growth.

It looks like the stuff I replaced for someone recently. It didn't provide any noticeable difference to the room at all. Apparently it was quite expensive when you they had to buy the special adhesive and then the insulated layer product. The one I removed also had to be filled where the joints but up and didn't look good where it met the window reveal. For each roll you’ll need between 7.5 and 10 kgs of the adhesive depending on how absorbent the surface is

Fibreliner Smooth 150

Thermally efficient wallpapers hold more of the heat energy from the room’s air at the wall surface helping to combat the conditions which promote condensation forming and mould growing.

This is an important consideration, as it means that the thermal liner won't trap moisture in the walls, and prevents the fear of potential damp and mold problems. A. Two main reasons, 1) It makes it much easier to achieve a nice neat finish with minimal filling and sanding 2) It helps protect your investment from damage creating a good base for paint or decorative wallpaper at the same time. Your husbands concerns about cavity wall insulation have a valid basis. It can in some cases cause serious problems with penetrating damp, condensation and corrosion of wall ties.My old country house has solid stone walls and boy do they feel cold inside. Not being able to have the cavity insulated -'cos there ain't no cavity - for years I've been seeking a solution to this. To further increase the fire protection, we have devised a system to achieve a Class 1 rating - see the performance report here