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We have had all sorts of cleaver ideas for thermostats, this one used a mark/space ratio as it approached the target temperature to stop it over shooting, sounds great, and worked well with most oil boilers, however with the gas modulating boiler every time it is switched off externally when it switches on again it does so at maximum output, so the thermostat completely messed up the boilers own algorithms, and caused the boiler to run less efficiently. Using a smart thermostat and TRVs in conjunction allows you to heat individual rooms based on your schedule. So for me, working from home, I warm my office during the day but leave all the rooms downstairs off, then switch off my office and warm the living area in the evening.
run on 2 AAs for around two years battery swap is fast and cheap (I would take damaged lipos into account) mosquitto_pub -h 127.0.0.1 -p 1883 -t "
The big question with hard wired zones, is would combining the zones together work better? And then use the TRV heads to set up zones? There is no one size fits all answer, likely in most homes you will need more than one thermostat that can switch heating on, be it two hard wired wall thermostats in parallel or a hard wired wall thermostat with wireless link to other thermostats, possibly a TRV head but not all the TRV heads need to be linked. Most of the big brand smart heating companies can work this way too. Tado and Genius valves are still usable even if you don’t have smart control over your boiler. You just need to synchronise your boiler schedule with your valves manually. Not seen it wired like that before, but it does make sense, the problem with a condensing boiler is switching it off/on stops is modulating as designed, it seems there is a thermostat made by EPH designed to work as a master/slave so you can have multi thermostats on one boiler connected using OpenTherm, I am sure some one will tell me I am wrong, but I have not found any other make that will work that way, and as far as I can work out, the EPH thermostat does not link to any TRV head. It is not the only one, Nest will not link to a TRV head either.Cylinder temperature control system thermostats in many cases are installed with temperature ranges designated, so you must arrange them between 60 and 66 degrees C. This really is warm enough to destroy unwanted organisms in water; nevertheless it is likewise hot enough to burn. I know EPH does a master/slave thermostat that can use OpenTherm, the Drayton does have an add on for OpenTherm but not sure how it works with multi zones? But other wise the whole zone idea seems flawed. Hello Ericmark and thanks for replying. Unfortunately what I am looking for is how the motorised valves should be wired to the boiler/H1 Extension to make them open and close in sync with the programmed central heating periods/central heating pump. Unless they can be wired to behave like this, I will still end up in a situation where the DHW flows past the valves and warms the radiators. Mothers old house two wireless thermostats in parallel one receiver above consumer unit and one below it, trying to keep some distance between the two with EMC in mind. So one thermostat in kitchen and one in hall, neither ideal positions, but as a pair they worked well. Comprehensive Research: Our team dedicates extensive time and effort to research and analyze products, so you can make informed decisions.
Although you can use a smart thermostat to control your home’s heating, a smart radiator valve allows you to operate the radiators separately. They are a great addition to any central heating system because they allow you to have complete control of any radiator via a smartphone application or even through voice commands and other smart devices. Alternatively the valves can be autonomous but be able to get the temperature from a configurable device and not internal thermostat. If there happens to be someone with the correct knowledge and experience reading this, I would be indebted if you could explain it to me. As mentioned earlier in the thread, with the central heating valves open, we end up heating the radiators with the DHW...
Easy to mount without having to drain any water or intervene in the heating system; no special tools required for any type of radiator Plumbing wise, each valve simply controls the flow through part of the system - as many valves as you want zones. So one valve controls flow to downstairs rads, another to upstairs rads, a third to the hot water cylinder coil. As above, you could have one per room if you wanted - but these days it's easier to use electronic TRV heads for room-by-room control.