Games Workshop Citadel Colour - Air: Lupercal Green (24ml)

Product Information

I wanted this Warhammer Underworlds warband to have a look that really reflected the Death faction in the Mortal Realms – rich dark purples and contrasting, ghostly green hues definitely felt very Shyishan, fitting a realm constantly shrouded in amethyst magics. It gave the warband an unnerving undead style, especially compared to their normal royal blue heraldry.

With the release of Maloghurst just around the corner, and a potential large Heresy box-set coming out with plenty of Mk VI and Cataphractii, part of me is looking to re-starting a XVIth Legion force. Mutant Flesh: – Wash with a 50/50 mix of Coelia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium. – Apply a light 60/40 mix of Coleia Greenshade/Lhamian Medium to the more prominent crevices and separations in the alien arms. – Soft Drybrush VGC Ghost Grey with a round-tipped makeup brush, focusing on the most prominent raised edges and features (face, hands etc). Build up a few light layers on the smooth areas of the head this way to help blend into the darker skin. – Edge Highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh. Once the chipping is where you want, its crucial that you seal thoroughly with varnish, otherwise washes and later paint layers can reactivate the chipping medium. In my case I am using either Vallejo Mecha Matte or Premium Air Matte, and I am not quite sure how other finishes will affect how the the scheme turns since there are a lot of washes involved. Do note, that while I describe doing this with a airbrush you could probably do it by hand or rattle can, its just that it might take a lot longer. Base Coats – Its almost all washes babyDecorative Metal (Icons, Leaders’ Weapons): – Base with Balthasar Gold. – Wash with Agrax Earthshade. – Drybrush with Hashut Copper. – Lightly Drybrush with Sycorax Bronze, focused on the edges. For the chipping, take a fine piece of sponge and use it to dab Rhinox Hide on the sharpest corners. I painted the whole cape Gal Vorbak Red, with two thin coats. I then layered up with Khorne Red, a blend of Khorne Red and Mephiston Red, Mephiston Red, and then a last highlight of a blend of Mephiston Red and Averland Sunset. Stormbringer Blue: This deep, rich blue paint would create a sense of mystery and depth when paired with Lupercal Green, like the shadows of a dense forest at dusk.

Prepare basic fleshtone mix from Slaanesh Grey, Cadian Fleshtone, and Ushabti Bone (5:3:1). I made a whole batch of this in a dropper bottle for all of my first to third generation Genestealers, so that the tone would be consistent across units. Hereafter I’ll refer to this as Genestealer Flesh Mix. For 4th generation hybrids (Neophytes and other more human models) you can substitute the use of Genestealer Flesh Mix with your normal skin colour, and simply glaze the shadows with a bit of Druchii Violet.

Discussion

Thinned down glazes of Scalecolour FX Fluor Orange following these lines, pulling the paint towards the lantern, so the colour is strongest closer to the bulb itself. Feather the colour with a bit of water at the farthest extremes to create a soft gradient between the orange and non-orange colour, the gel medium of the Scalecolour paints really helps when it comes to blending it out like this. Fulgurite Copper was the basecoat for the molten insides, as well as the flames. I shaded it with thinned Fyreslayer Flesh, and drybrushed the raised flames with a mix of 50% Fulgurite Copper and 50% Stormhost Silver. Genestealer Cults are some particularly interesting antagonists in the 40k fiction. They haven’t really had a chance to shine as protagonists in their own right, but show up in various roles in other books as threats of varying levels. I haven’t read these, but if you’re interested in reading more, I’ve generally heard good things about the following books: Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html