For the blue armor, I went way off the reservation and used a Reaper Master Series Triad called… Ultramarine Blues. Crazy, right? As you can (hopefully) see, the darkest color in the triad has some nice purple tones and overall the triad is quite vibrant and blue. Highlighting follow my usual process. I start with highlighting every armor edge with Scale75 Sky Blue which is a nice vibrant and bright blue. I then hit top-facing edges with Vallejo Model Color Sky Blue, which is a much lighter color despite having the same name. Finally, I hit corners and compound edges with Vallejo Model Color Blue Grey Pale. Step 5: Weathering And there’s more – all Citadel Colour Shades have been reformulated to make them even better, seven more have been created, which we’ll be taking a look at next week. Plus, we’ve also perfected white spray paint, making it easier than ever to undercoat your miniatures. Imperial Guard – The Imperial Guard is a faction of the Imperium that specializes in infantry and tanks. Calgar Blue would be a great choice for painting their tanks and vehicles, as well as for the highlights of the Imperial Guard’s uniforms.

Emma: Regally vibrant, Luxion Purple keeps a bright tone even in the darker areas of your miniatures – great for Hedonites of Slaanesh and the Emperor’s Children . This is my favourite purple Contrast of all time!Emma: This colour is all about punch, it’s so bright and powerful. Doomfire Magenta straight out of the pot gives you a vivid pink for cloth or magic spells. It also suits Daughters of Khaine or Escher Gangers if you want some cool pink hair colours.

Emma: Such a rich, vibrant teal colour! It’s perfect for Seraphon and many other models – I have even thinned it down to make a spooky verdigris for Grand Alliance Death models. Phoenix Hawk (PHX-3K, #10, white with grey and yellow accents), piloted by Franklin “Furter” StonewallEmma: This paint has a lovely jade-like tone, which is really intense and vivid. I love using it over Stormhost Silver on gemstones or thinned down for a different take on crystal blades than the usual blue. The hexadecimal color code #4272b8 is a shade of cyan-blue. In the RGB color model #4272b8 is comprised of 25.88% red, 44.71% green and 72.16% blue. In the HSL color space #4272b8 has a hue of 216° (degrees), 47% saturation and 49% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 475.08 nm. This is essentially a full shift upwards in brightness from my modern yellow technique, going for a warm, saturated yellow. This is also what I’d do for hazard stripes. No self-respecting Ultramarine would go to war without the proper iconography. My technique is identical to JD’s. However, we have one more step to go! Step 13. Weathering Another important consideration was the inside of the cloaks. I chose not to glue the models to their bases while working on them so that I could pull them off and get at the space between their legs. This is good to keep in mind for any model with a cape or cloak. I did not think of this when I built my first squad of Skitarii and it was… not fun.

Any time you’re using transfers, weathering powders, or just painting over metal, you should varnish. Hell, you should probably do it on plastic models too. Varnish everything. I use Citadel’s Munitorum Varnish. Smarter Goonhammer writers than I have written many words on varnishing. Once you have this coat down, your models should be ready to go! Edge the pads in gold or whichever company colour you’re aiming for. (I used S75 Elven Gold and blended it with some silver while it was wet).Silver: Leadbelcher– Leadbelcher is a metallic silver paint that can be used to add a metallic touch to a miniature painted with Calgar Blue. The silver color can be used to highlight details such as weapons, ornaments and other metallic elements. These are going to be the same as anybody else’s steps, including my own. Get transfers on these models (or in my case, freehand and moulded pauldrons) then varnish away! Metal models chip super easily, especially if you don’t have a really durable primer on them. Emma: Gutrippa Flesh is terrific and will save a lot of time when painting Kruleboyz or Gretchin as it gives an excellent base colour and shade that suits these boyz down to the ground. It’s really great for camo cloth too! Jungle: Base coat is Deathworld Forest, camo elements are Caliban Green > Athonian Camoshadepin wash > Elysian Green > Ogryn Camo I don’t worry about eras or how improbable it is that one mercenary company would have the mix of Inner Sphere and Clan ‘Mechs the Long Nights possess; I just paint what I want to paint.